For running slots, rabbets or molding patterns around the edges of panels, or for simply trimming laminate flush, they can't be beat. To begin, these first-generation routers are generally smaller, lighter and easier to handle than their plunging cousins. So, why would anyone want a fixed-base router? Well, glad you asked. Not only can a plunge router do anything the old fixed-base design can, but it also handles a complete range of internal cuts, like mortises, enclosed holes and recesses, with a level of safety and accuracy that's hard to beat.
#Craftsman 1 1 2 hp router full#
In addition to my C'man, I have an older Milwaukee 5615- no light or soft start, single speed, but full height adjustment Acme thread with quick release is a much better design, but at twice the price.If you're going to have just one router, a plunge router is a pretty good choice. Also, there's some slop between the cam and the slot, creating some lash in bit adjustment. If you reach the end of the thread while adjusting the bit, you need to "shift gears" to the next slot to move the bit farther. As it is, you have to slip the cam at the end of the screw into one of the three slots in the motor housing. With the single base, you probably won't be removing the motor all that often, so this probably won't be an issue.Ģ) I'd prefer that the bit height adjustment screw had greater range. Dust collection pretty much sucks (or doesn't )- I also think that's a common condition for routers- but the clear little cover for the open side seems to help.ġ) Inserting the motor into the base can be frustrating- you have the match up the alignment arrows perfectly hard to do if you use it in a router table. The soft start and speed adjustment are both nice, too. I do like the LED lights (at first I thought that was a bit gimmicky, but they really do help), and I also prefer the screw bit height adjustment over old school (PC) twisting of the motor to adjust height. It has plenty of power for my needs, and I agree with your assessment of the router. It does have a lot of features built into it, and I think it's the best bang for the buck out there. I have the combo version (#27683) of your router, and am quite happy with it.
#Craftsman 1 1 2 hp router Pc#
I guess that's probably a proprietary thing, but it means I have to make a baseplate to match for my PC to keep distance to edge the same for my cutting guide, and I always seem to have trouble getting those precisely centered when locating the screw holes (anybody got a trick for getting that nailed?)Īnyway, for the money I was hard pressed to find a better router. It has a 6" diameter baseplate, just a 1/4" bigger than my PC. The vacuum attachment feature is almost useless, but that would seem to be true with any router I've tried that has it because the chips can just blow right out of the groove/dado being cut anyway and 2. Solid build, 3 LED work lights, soft start, uses both 1/4" and 1/2" collets, power switch accessible while holding the router on the workpiece, and the fine adjustment works pretty well IMO. It seems pretty nice for the money ($95 w/ tax).
Just wondering if anyone here has tried this router out. The combo pack would've been only 20 bucks more, but the extra 2 amps and 1/4 HP decided it for me, and I already have a combo router set anyway. So I went looking for an economical 1 1/2-2 HP router and decided on the Craftsman 12 amp fixed base router. Basically to save time on either having to reposition my cutting guide twice or resetting bit heights every time. Started a project involving sliding dovetails and realized it would be nice to have two routers for it, one for the straight bit cuts to hog out the slots, and one for the dovetail bit cuts to finish.
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